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Pop Culture. Young Adult Fiction. Anyone attempting it should probably consult a real guidebook for details. My purpose in listing it here is to make a few notes rather than provide a detailed route description and to open this up for comments.


Both Gerry Roach and Louis Dawson's guides provide excellent, thorough route descriptions. However, route finding on this ridge is very easy: simply put, you just don't have that many options. For 95 percent of the climb you stay on the very apex of the ridge. The climbing is very exposed almost the entire way and there is almost no relief from this so be prepared.

Generally the whole ridge is 3rd-4th class with a few sections of harder 4th class bordering on easy 5th class approach shoes should be sufficient. There are no sustained sections on the climb and you can rest wherever you want. However, the true crux may be in maintaining a high level of concentration for a mile of dangerous climbing.

Rock quality is usually very good but test your holds. The ridge can be windy. Guidebooks suggest doing the traverse from Little Bear to Blanca. I believe the traverse could be done in the other direction without adding difficulty, however the traverse would be significantly more tedious in this direction.

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Also, apparently typical times range from hours for the traverse. I can't imagine a time of more than 4 hours to be "typical. The route is truly awesome and a whole lot of fun! Protection Logistically, roping up for this climb let alone belaying individual pitches makes very little sense.

However, a light rope could be helpful in an emergency. Add New Photo Photo Photo copy. Photo by Jason Halladay. Final steps up Blanca after a snowy traverse. Traverse as seen from the Little Bear summit on….

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One of the many downclimbs along the traverse. The final section before reaching Blanca. Clouds rolling in at the start of our traverse. Chris Johnson dowclimbing off of the summit of…. The traverse looking…. On LB, looking across gnarly traverse to Blanca….

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